Tuesday, November 16, 2010

Oman


































Today, I stomped my last geophone as a contracted “Mountaineer” in the remote desert of Oman. It has been an interesting 60 days of consecutive work in an industry I knew nothing about.
I was contracted by a Canadian based company called ‘Global Mountain Solutions’ who hire ACMG certified guides to work in the seismic industry for Petroleum Development Oman (PDO) and Shell. The job was quite involved, but put simply, we drove around the desert and laid equipment down on steep terrain so that ‘cat scans’ could be taken to map the internal structures of the earth. We were involved in the process of looking for resources in difficult terrain, i.e. Oil and gas.
Having never been to Oman, I did not know what to expect. What I did find, was that the people are kind, the Sultan of Oman cares for his people, and the country is a safe place to travel and explore. I spent most of my time in the middle of know where in a camp made out of steel boxes, but did get to know and befriend some local Omanis. I also had an interestingly long road trip from the far south to the nation’s capital – Muscat – so I was able to see more of the country side before my 60 day visa expired.
When I wasn’t implanting small devices called “geophones” into the ground and laying out 70 to 120 meters of electrical cable with recording devices, I was keeping busy around camp. Many hours were spent honing my ping pong game, exercising on the TRX portable training program, and jogging about the desert under moonlight. I also managed to memorize roughly 50 Arabic words to help me communicate with the locals. You can’t spend 2 months in a foreign country and not have the desire to learn a bit of the spoken tongue.
The heat was, at times, unbearable. When I arrived the mercury was pushing 40c by 1030am and was creeping ever so close to the 50c mark by the early afternoon. Coming from a relatively cold place like Banff, and enjoying long winters and short summers, this was hard for me to handle in the beginning. Except for short drives in our air conditioned Toyota Hilux 4x4s to and from job sites, there was no escaping the heat. The wind blew hot and even the shade offered little relief. Thank god I arrived in the fall and the temps were on their way down for the winter months. By the time I left, the mornings were perfect and the daytime temps were in the high 30s – not bad at all by comparison. I watched the sunrise and set, every day, for my entire stay. I never once felt a drop of rain, or saw clouds thick enough to hold any significant amount of moisture. I had the pleasure of seeing life in a place so dry and barely hospitable. I often crossed paths with the intriguing Camel, saw lizards, vultures, gazelles, and a couple rare desert fox sightings. I always wondered what they lived off of.
The toughest part of the job was being away from my beloved partner Ellen, family and friends and of course the mountains. I’m looking forward to spending some time at home and playing in my backyard this coming winter. Bring on the ice and the snow!!

Friday, May 14, 2010

Tangle Ridge






Last monday my buddy Jiro and I made the slog into a newly climbed route called "Undertow", on the backside of Tangle Ridge on the Icefields Parkway. A big congrats to the first ascentionists - Mike Verway, Jay Mills, and Steve Holeczi(who taught me how to ice climb in '05).

This was a big rig with over 600meters of ice in the WI 4 to 6 range. There was 3 steeper pitches, but most of the climbing was closer to WI4. The exit pitch over the dormant serac at the top was short but burly and very unique, toping out onto low angled ice and snow. The summit views were incredible! A full pano of the Columbia Icefields with Mt. Kitchener in front and centre.

With a good overnight freeze we were able to hike into the base in 3 hours, climbing the popular "Shades of Beauty"(WI4, 120m) along the way. Add that to the overall length and your looking at nearly 800m of ice!! All that fat waterfall ice at this time of year is just awesome. We used a 70m rope and topped out after over 9 long rope-stretching pitches. Every pitch was unique and fun. After enjoying the summit views and playing the peak naming game, we casually descended the south ridge back to Tangle Falls and the Parkway. We had been on the go, non-stop for 15hours and feeling a bit tired, but mainly thirsty. Its hard on your body to exert for that long on just 1.5 litres of water and a few snickers bars, but you gotta keep the weight down in order to travel quicker.

I would say that "Undertow" is one of the best pure waterfall climbs that I have done! If you're into this sort of thing, make the slog in and enjoy one of the very best ice climbs in the Canadian Rockies.

Monday, April 19, 2010

Summer is here....for now anyway!



Spent the last couple of warm and sunny days climbing on one of my favorite peaks - Mt. Yamnuska. Also know as Mt. Laurie, the south face offers hundreds of rock climbs of varying difficulty, length, and quality....quality of rock that is. Some routes offer steep climbing on clean rock, and some need delicate climbing skills and a cool head to overcome poor rock and poor protection.

On Thurs we climbed "The Bowl" a 10c trad route located in the bowl area, and Friday we climbed "Jimmy and the Cruisers" an 11a trad route located in the same area.

We descended both routes by rapelling a modern bolted line called "Grey Scale", also located in the bowl area. I only use this option if there are no parties climbing below.
Photos by R.Berg

Saturday, April 10, 2010

Mini Alpine Route


I finally lined up a day and a partner to check out a newly bolted/mixed route on Mt. Loder called "Doors of Perception". Now there has been discussion and debate on whether this route has been climbed before, but I'm not about to judge on the ethics of bolting or retrofitting a route. The bottom line is, the obvious natural line that this route takes prob has been climbed before(there was some old fixed pins along the way), but it prob has not seen much traffic, nor has it been recorded as far as I know. Now, with new bolts protecting the slabby sections and bolted anchors, more folks can get to enjoy this mini alpine route in relative safety. The climbing is in the M6 range and offers good gear where there are no bolts. The first 5 or so pitches can be climbed with boots and bare hands if the sun is out, and the upper pitches are better climbed in crampons and some good tool placements.

We unfortunately, got caught in last thursdays afternoon snow storm a pitch from the summit and had to hastily exit stage right on a snowy ledge that connects to the ridge - a good thing to know.

Monday, April 5, 2010

Sails for Seniors - WI6



Rob Smith and I deciced to go looking for some end of season ice. We drove up the Icefields Parkway but wasn't sure about the amounts of recent snowfall around Mt. Murchison. It's a good thing Murchison is on the east side of the parkway and lies in a rain shadow as west of us winter was still very much alive there.

We decide to have a look at a newly climbed route called "Sails for Seniors" (M6, WI6), located in a gully just up and left of the popular Balfour Wall. The approach is simple as it follows the Balfour Wall approach for 40min before contouring up to tree line then traversing up and left to the dry looking break in the cliffband above. 1.5 hours later we were standing below a short pitch of black ice dirtied from runoff rocks and dirt. This short pitch of WI3 led to a low angled snow slope, which led to the base of S for S. The climbed looked thin and fun from the base. 2 gorgeous pitches of thin ice climing with some excellent rock protection in a awesome setting made this one of the funnest climbs I have done this year! There is some interesting chimneying with blobs of good ice and some rotten WI6 ice on the second pitch to make it exciting. Both belays and most of the good gear was in rock. More info on www.gravsports-ice.com. FA J Mills and M Adolph

Wednesday, February 17, 2010

Healthy Whole Grain Pancakes


Here is my favorite pancake recipe. The pancakes are thick and fluffy and are packed with the energy needed to kick start your day. It's all about having the right temp on your griddle or pan. Preheating the pan is the secret to pancake perfection. While you mix up the batter, preheat your pan on the medium to medium-high heat that gives the batter time to cook through while the surface browns. Enjoy.

Ingredients:
2 cups whole wheat flour
1 cup oatmeal flakes
2 tablespoons baking powder
1 teaspoon cinnamon or nutmeg (i prefer cin)
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
2 cups milk or Soy or even better - 1 cup water and 1 cup coconut milk
1/4 vegetable oil
2 tablespoons honey
2 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Mix all ingredients. Dollop onto pan.

Feeds approx 3 people.

Top with pure Canadian Maple Syrup or your favorite berry

Altered from original recipe by "Chef at Home", Michael Smith.

Tuesday, February 16, 2010

Banff Life

Spent the day guiding with Sarah H. and the Banff Life Crew. We had an intro to ice climbing day and spent it at The Junkyards. It's an excellent beginner area to learn the basics and swing the tools. There is lots of ice and numerous areas to set up a rope or practice your lead skills. We start off the morning by learning how to walk in crampons, front pointing, swinging ice tools, body positioning while on the ice, belaying, tying in with a figure-8, and general into. We then move into setting up top-ropes and getting into applying the basics to getting up the ice. Folks have a chance to try out numerous climbing areas within the Junkyards and test their skills on low-angled, and steeper ice while getting instruction on climbing technique. We also enjoy getting to know one another and enjoying the great outdoors!

Thanks Banff Life Crew!!! You're Awesome!!