I finally lined up a day and a partner to check out a newly bolted/mixed route on Mt. Loder called "Doors of Perception". Now there has been discussion and debate on whether this route has been climbed before, but I'm not about to judge on the ethics of bolting or retrofitting a route. The bottom line is, the obvious natural line that this route takes prob has been climbed before(there was some old fixed pins along the way), but it prob has not seen much traffic, nor has it been recorded as far as I know. Now, with new bolts protecting the slabby sections and bolted anchors, more folks can get to enjoy this mini alpine route in relative safety. The climbing is in the M6 range and offers good gear where there are no bolts. The first 5 or so pitches can be climbed with boots and bare hands if the sun is out, and the upper pitches are better climbed in crampons and some good tool placements.
We unfortunately, got caught in last thursdays afternoon snow storm a pitch from the summit and had to hastily exit stage right on a snowy ledge that connects to the ridge - a good thing to know.
No comments:
Post a Comment